Sukma Lintang's Bright Rays at the Rock Climbing World Cup

WUJIANG, SATURDAY — Indonesian lead climber Sukma Lintang Cahyani failed to reach her target of reaching the final round in the 2025 World Cup series in Wujiang, China. However, Lintang showed her bright light by becoming the only Indonesian representative in the semifinals and recording the best result during her participation in the World Cup.

Lintang had to be content with finishing in 18th place out of 24 participants in the semifinal round held at the Fenhu Culture and Sports Center, Wujiang, on Saturday (26/4/2025). This means that the 20-year-old climber did not succeed in advancing to the final round, as only the top eight participants in the semifinal could qualify for the peak stage.

In fact, reaching the final round is Lintang's target in Wujiang, which is the first international tournament of the year. She wants to experience the final round again, similar to the Asian zone qualification for the Paris 2024 Olympics last year in Jakarta.

"I want to achieve better results than last year's World Cup series in Wujiang. Therefore, I am targeting to reach the finals or the top eight," said Lintang before departing for Wujiang.

In Wujiang last year, Lintang also failed to advance to the final. The climber from Yogyakarta was ranked 26th or the last semifinalist position. Starting this year, based on the rules of the International Federation of Rock Climbing (IFSC), semifinalists for the lead race are only those ranked in the top 24 of the qualifiers.

Before Wujiang this year, Lintang's achievement in Wujiang in 2023 along with the 2022 series in Jakarta was her best performance throughout her participation in the World Cup. Since 2021, Lintang has participated in the World Cup six times.

The 2025 World Cup series in Wujiang marks her seventh participation. Although she did not advance to the next round, the results in Wujiang this year have renewed Lintang's best achievement in the World Cup.

The result began with Lintang conducting a collective observation for six minutes alongside 23 other athletes. They were not allowed to attempt the route. After the observation, the athletes were placed in isolation.

The semifinal competition was conducted in a single climbing session, unlike the qualifying round which was held twice. The competition began with participants ranked lowest to highest in the qualifying standings. Participants ranked at the top of the qualification enjoyed the advantage of having more time to think from behind the competition wall.

Lintang, as the lowest-ranked athlete in the qualifications, was the first participant in the women's category to start the semifinals. Just like in the qualifications, Lintang displayed fluid movements as if she were dancing on the climbing wall.

Lead is indeed a discipline in rock climbing that requires flexibility to reach the holds on the climbing wall. Not only that, this discipline also requires endurance, agility, and speed. Because, the winner is determined by the athlete who reaches the highest point with the fastest time in the 6-minute time allocation.

When reaching grips 32 and 33 out of a total of 42 grips, Lintang indeed appeared to struggle. Her body was momentarily horizontal with her right and left hands crossed on the grip.

Lintang then managed to hang on for approximately three seconds using only her left hand on the 33rd grip. Her body attempted to turn so that her right hand could reach the next grip. However, it was at this moment that Lintang fell.

By reaching the 33rd hold out of a total of 42 holds to reach the summit, Lintang briefly occupied the sixth position on the leaderboard when 12 participants had already performed. Her position gradually slipped as two other participants completed their performances.

When South Korean climber, Kim Juha, reached 34+, Lintang was immediately thrown out of the top eight positions. The chance to advance to the final round slipped away.

However, when compared to the results in Wujiang in 2023, Lintang was able to reach a higher point on the 15-meter climbing wall this year. Last year, Lintang reached hold 20+. He fell while attempting to move to hold 21.

This lead is targeted to be better than before. Previously, we were in the semifinals with the lowest ranking. Our desire is to at least reach the finals. That alone is already very cool.

Another Indonesian female lead climber, Nur Diatul Jannah, could not follow Lintang's footsteps after only placing 56th in the qualifying round. Nur fell while trying to move to points 19 and 22.

Lintang also showed his bright light in Wujiang this year by becoming the only Indonesian representative in the semifinals. Of the four Indonesian lead climbers, only Lintang qualified for the round.

Meanwhile, male lead climber Muhammad Rizky Syahrafli Simatupang was ranked 32nd after falling while trying to reach point 37 and reaching point 35 on the second route. Meanwhile, Musauwir was perched in 49th position after falling while trying to move to points 32 and 23.

The results in Wujiang could be the starting capital for Lintang for his journey this year. The lead discipline will be more often included in competitions to learn to compete with other international climbers. That includes the next World Cup series in Bali next week.

"This Lead is targeted to be better than before. Previously, we were in the semifinals with the lowest ranking. Our desire is to at least make it to the finals. That alone is already very cool," said Indonesian rock climbing coach, Hendra Basir.

"However, we cannot deny that improving the ability in lead is not as fluctuating as speed so it seems stable. It takes longer to be at the peak level of performance. While competitors are already at that point. However, we are just taking it gradually," Hendra added.